Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

by Admin Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:07 pm

alexkaeda

Quote:Do Not Try This At Home.
I am a Professional. I have years of experience, training, and skills that you kiddies cannot imagine. I also have access to tools and spare parts to cover my own ass if I manage to screw up. If you do any of the things suggested in this thread, I take zero responsibilty for your failures. procede at your own risk

Here are the rules

1). We are discussing Building, Jerry-Rigging, parts that you cannot buy, are too cheap to buy, or too lazy to order.

2). We are not discussing buying a conversion kit from Guarder, or how to set your new Systema gears.

3). Photographs are appreciated, but not necessary. Step-by-Step how-to guides are necessary.

4). Do not be a dill-weed who wants to show off the sexy conversion you did, without telling us how we did it, so that we can expand on your learning process.

Quote:Do Not Try This At Home.
I am a Professional. I have years of experience, training, and skills that you kiddies cannot imagine. I also have access to tools and spare parts to cover my own ass if I manage to screw up. If you do any of the things suggested in this thread, I take zero responsibilty for your failures. procede at your own risk

Quote:Disclaimer:
I take no responsibility for damage done as a result of following this or any other features in the "how-to" sections.
I also accept no responsibility for parts bought in error as a result of parts suggested in the features.
I will however attempt to rectify any mistakes to the website which are pointed out to me.
Feel free to check out other sites as a supplier for the parts, the list is simply of where the parts are known by me to be available at the time of writing.
This site is run by a hobbyist and is designed to show how I made my customisations.
No money is made from these features.
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alexkaeda

Replacement Hop-Up Bucking.

So, you know how there is that tiny rubber tube that pushes down through the rubber in your hop-up chamber, that gives the hop-up effect? You know how easy it is to lose that bit of rubber? And then it costs a couple dollars for a replacement, as well as waiting for shipping from wherever you buy it.

Big Annoyance, right?

So, take the swing-arm off of your Hop-Up unit. there is a little cup there, right?

Open up a Big Pen, and cut a little bit off of the end of the Pen, or get a length of copper wire from your garage (or hell, whatever you want that is about the right size).

Cut it so that it fits right inside that little cup, then polish the ends (so that it will not run any danger of damaging the rest of your hop-up rubber).

Then put your hop-up chamber back together. when you put your barrel back in (if you took it out!), you should be able to see the bucking pushing down into the barrel.

Now, if you do this, your hop-up is going to be a little more sensitive, because there will not be as much 'give' (the copper wire or pen cutting does not compress quite the same as the rubber).

That should get you back in the game, and you can always order a replacement hop up rubber later, or put it on a friends order, or leave it be. Does it really matter?
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alexkaeda

Flashlight Becomes a Suppressor

So, you want to have the suppressed Rifle look, without dropping fifty bucks on a fake suppressor? Have a old mag-light (or other flashlight) that you dont care about?

Material List
1 - flash light of appropriate size and shape
2 - JB weld
3 - Tin Foil
4 - thread protector or flash hider of appropriate thread (yes virginia, you can get a AK47 flash hider, and use that for most airsoft guns)
5 - Plastic Tube

Punch a hole in the end cap, then remove material (like all the electrical components, and the bulb-area). I JB Welded the tube that is used for packaging a new Inner Barrel into the center, anchoring one end to an AUG flash hider (most 14x1 left hand AK flash hiders will work, they are relatively cheap and solid) that was wrapped in tin foil and JB Weld, and the other end to the bottom of the flashlight so that it made a suppressor. The tin foil and JB weld wrapped around the flash hider serve to act as a spacer, and filler material that adds to the overall strength.

Depending on how brave you are, you might look into drilling holes into the tube that runs from the hole at the front of the suppressor, to the flash hider, and fill the space between the outer wall, and the inner wall, with cotton batting for a little bit of sound suppressive effect.

WARNING
Kids, if you put this on a real rifle, expect to hurt yourselves. Alot. This is NOT in any way able to handle the preasures associated with a real rifle, while the theorys are similar, the application is very different.
END WARNING

By using a Flash Hider or Thread Protector, you can remove the suppressor from your M4, and attach it to your AK47, MP5K-PDW or SIG552 (along with other weapons)

Now, you can bake JB Weld to make it cure faster. I like to turn my oven on to about 200 degrees, and bake parts for at least twenty minutes. Of course, if you are using plastic, thats possibly not such a great idea.
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alexkaeda

Making your M4 a M4 Commando
We've all seen them. Those Super Cute shortened M4's. . . . . But how to do it, without spending fifty bucks on a new barrel assembly?

EASY. Too Easy.

So, pick up your M4, and pull the handguards off. See a couple allen screws up at the back of the outer barrel, behind the front sight block, remove them. Your outer barrel should slide off, right?

So, now you have your outer barrel in hand, right? You should have two pins, and then, at the bottom, a allen key holding the front sight block to the barrel. Go ahead and remove the pins, and loosen the allen key. Now the front sight block slides up and down the outer barrel right? Go ahead and adjust it to whatever looks best to you - I like putting the 'step-down' in between the legs on the Frong Sight Block. I feel that having the step-down in between the legs of the front sight block gives the most pleasing appearance. You may feel differently, and I can respect that.

If I was you, I would take a tap-and-die kit, and tap out threads on the front sight block, so that you can use screws to hold it in place, instead of pins, or JB Weld. you may need to use a small strip of tape to act as a small spacer between the barrel and the sight block.

Lets say, for amusement value, that you want to use the pins to hold the front sight block on. find a way to scratch the outer barrel in the pin-holes, so that you have a point of reference, then take the front sight block off, and use a file, or dremel, or something to make new channels on the barrel for the pins. Now, put the barrel back on, insert the pins, and tighten down the allen key on the bottom of your sight block.

Thats the easy part. Now you are staring the hard part in the face. Measure carefully, and determine how much of the tube between the barrel adaptor/barrel nut, and the outer barrel you need to cut off. Measure two, or three times, then cut once. You might even want to go to the hardware store and get a replacement tube just in case. A replacement tube would be a really good idea. If a alternative tube is not possible, cut it a little bit long, because you can always remove more material to get the correct fit.

Now, assemble it. It looks good right?

wrong!

There is that big brass inner barrel tube sticking out the front!

Grab that dremel tool. Remove your flash hider, and you should see the threads. Go ahead and chop the barrel off right in front of the threads (like 1mm in front). Now re-attach your flash hider. As an alternative, grab that mag light, and build a suppressor (see previous instructions) so you can have the suppressed commando M4 look, without sacrificing barrel length.

Now, your M4 has that sexy short close quarter battle rifle look, and it didnt break the bank! What did you really lose, other than some range and accuracy? Just a little bit of time . . . . and the respect of all your peers, who now think you're a douche bag who wants to think hes special forces. *shrugs* They were not really your friends anyway, so who needs them?
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alexkaeda

Real (Plastic) Grips on a AK47
Around the start of the year 2005, my good buddy Jordan (Browndogg) bought a set of Real Steel Plastic grips for his AK47 as part of a massive conversion.

Unfortunately, they were not a direct swap.

By removing a few ribs, and filing away some material so that it would fit better under the retainers, we were able to get the upper foregrip to attach to the gas tube. We could have added some JB Weld to make it rock-solid, but laziness, and the thought that one day, we might want to change it, stopped us.

The lower grip was a little more difficult. Around the front was a metal reinforcing strip, that had to go. Using a pair of pliars, we ripped out the reinforcing strip. Then, at the back of the grip, we bent a paper clip into a "L" sort of shape, and added a healthy whollop of JB Weld, in order to secure it to the grip. If you did not know, I believe heavily in JB Weld, and that with enough JB Weld, you can do anything. We then took the collar that usually holds the lower foregrip, and JB Welded it to the front of the foregrip, on the inside (so that instead of wrapping over the foregrip, the foregrip wrapps over it), and slid it back onto the barrel (with the gas tube sliding on right after it, to be screwed down so that it would hold in place).

Overall, it was a very simple conversion, and totally changed the feel of the weapon. I do not know if it would work for other grips marketed by K-Var, but given the simplicity, and durability of the AK47 design, I would hazard to guess that other grips could be similarly modified to function.

For reference, here are the real parts used in this sexy conversion. Lower Grip and Upper Grip
A similar parts kit is made by Guarder, I believe, as their AK103 conversion, however, the price difference between a couple real grips, and a guarder conversion kit is massive (of course the number of parts in the kit is similarly large).